Frequently Asked Questions

This is arguably the most important step in ensuring all Squirt chain lubes function optimally. It is very important that the chain is properly degreased before initial application. All other oils, greases, and lubes must be removed from the chain in order for the wax to adhere to the bare metal of the chain. It also ensures full penetration to the pins, rollers, and shoulders/bushings of the chain. A dedicated water-based degreaser of Squirt Cycling’s Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Concentrate and a medium brush can be used to do this. Make sure to follow the user instructions very closely.  Once the chain is dry, shake your bottle of Squirt Chain Lube well and apply lube to the inside or outside (just above the cassette) of your chain. Apply one layer of lube while slowly rotating the cranks backward and continue rotating the cranks another 10 times after application to ensure the wax penetrates the chain properly and evenly. Let the first application dry and apply a second layer in the same fashion. This will ensure the chain is coated in wax.  After the initial Squirt Chain Lube application, use only Squirt Lube and drybrush the chain and derailleur pulley wheels occasionally to clean.

Yes. Squirt should be started on a clean, properly de-greased and dry chain. Factory grease on a new chain should be removed with organic solvent if needed. A second application ten minutes after the first is recommended when starting out with Squirt.

De-greasing is not necessary when using Squirt. It does not form a black build-up like oils that traps dirt to accelerate chain wear. It does not smudge and stays dry. Brush off with dry brush if needed and remove occasional build-up from rear derailleur wheels with a toothpick. 

The best way to remove Squirt from your chain is with a mixture of really hot water and, preferably, our Bike Cleaner Concentrate. The hot water melts the wax while the cleaner lifts away the dirt.

For a thorough degrease, remove the chain from your bike and boil it in a mix of water and one 30 ml Bike Cleaner Concentrate sachet.

If you'd rather leave the chain on the bike, a mixture of hot water, Squirt Bike Cleaner, and a brush will do the trick. 

It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you start hearing a dry chain noise, re-application is already due. In wet, muddy conditions it will not last as long as in dry-dust free conditions. In general, from 30 to 300 miles on one application - the chain will stay clean. If you expect riding in wet conditions, lube your chain the day before if possible.

Wait until the chain is completely dry, and then apply a layer of lube to the inside of the chain while slowly rotating the cranks backward. After applying a layer of lube, continue spinning the cranks slowly for a few revolutions to ensure the lube penetrates the chain rollers and links. If it is the first time applying Squirt Chain Lube, you can wait until the lube has dried (it will go from milky white to colorless) and apply a second layer to ensure complete coverage and penetration.

After initial application, dry brushing of the chain and derailleur pulley wheels to remove occasional wax buildup is all that is required for cleaning before adding fresh Squirt Chain Lube.

Squirt Chain Lube is the original, first to market wax/water emulsion chain lube for use above freezing in all conditions. Low-Temp: Solid wax hardens below freezing point (32℉, 0) impairing lubing function. Low-Temp contains wax modifier that keeps the wax consistency optimal at these temperatures (0℉ to 32℉, -18℃ to 0℃). E-Bike lube contains high-pressure additives to deal with generally higher rotational force on e-bike drive trains. These lubes are interchangeable but the full benefit of each negated without proper de-greasing when changing.

Squirt should be stored between 40℉ and 95℉ with the cap on. If it freezes (below 32℉, 0℃) or dries out, it becomes thick. It can be restored to a creamy liquid by adding a little water and shaking it up (normally about 10% of water).

The small black particles are normal on stationary trainers. This also happens when on the road or trails, one just does not see it.  It is the hard-wax components of Squirt shedding from the chain.  Excess wax and dirt trapped sheds via this method.  You may find that more wax accumulates on the chain of your trainer - this is due the chain not vibrating/shaking enough to promote shedding. Our  biodegradability rating is therefor important as it would end up in the natural environment. 

All our chain lubes are biodegradable wax-water emulsions with additives to prevent component wear. We continually monitor the quality of the waxes we use to ensure we meet the highest standards and legislative compliance. Using newer generation fully refined waxes can result in natural separation of the emulsion if left standing for long periods of time. If you find that your bottle of Squirt Chain Lube has a visible separation layer in the bottom, this is normal.  When shaken well before application, this does not affect the performance of the lube.

If you start seeing a build-up very soon after initial application, it is possible that too much lube had been applied or too often.

A good way to prevent this is to run the chain through a dry rag for one or two revolutions after you have applied and then ride until you start hearing a dry chain noise. Only then reapply or ideally just before then. After some time you'll get an idea how long it lasts but this is also affected by riding conditions.

Most of the wax that gets expelled either accumulate around the jockey/derailleur wheels or on the chainring where it does not cause any damage to your drive train, unlike oily lubes that forms a grinding paste that stays on the chain.

If the chain was degreased properly the first time, there is no need to do it again - just apply a little less.

If stored under recommended conditions, the lube will last for many years. Stability samples of older than 15 years still retain functionality.

When the lube dries out after applying, the wax solidifies on the chain. When you start riding, the excess wax is expelled in small pieces and generally shaken off the chain while riding, especially with mountain biking.  With road biking more of the expelled wax stays on the chain because of the smooth riding surface and starts accumulating on the derailleur wheels and chain itself. The excess wax is out of harms way and does not affect the functioning of the lube unlike oily lubes that re-enter the lubrication process, wearing down the drive train. With Squirt there is a difference between a cosmetically clean chain and a functionally clean one.

The way you can minimize the build-up of wax is to run the chain through a dry cloth after applying. This will remove the excess lube beforehand and reduce the build-up. After that you do not need to de-grease between lubing intervals and just wipe off the excess every time after applying.

This is a fairly common experience, especially on road bikes — wax residue tends to shake off more effectively on mountain or gravel bikes, where vibration and dirt exposure naturally clear excess lube. On smooth pavement, that self-cleaning effect happens far less, so leftover wax on the outer chain surfaces has nowhere to go.

The fix is simple: after applying Squirt, remove the excess rather than leaving it on the chain. Apply the lube as normal, then backpedal the crank for at least 20 rotations to let it penetrate fully. Follow this by running the chain through a dry cloth to wipe away anything sitting on the outside. There's no need to apply to each link individually — a thin, steady stream while backpedaling is enough for good coverage.

The tacky feel when dry is normal and doesn't attract dirt the way oil-based lubes do. Once you've dialed in your application, you shouldn't need to reapply until you start hearing the chain get noisy (or just before) — this interval will vary with riding conditions, so it's worth learning your own chain's rhythm.

It's worth noting that a chain can be functionally clean (well-lubricated, protected, and running smoothly) even if it isn't cosmetically spotless — and that's the priority for drivetrain longevity.

You don't need to degrease between lube applications. If you notice buildup on the rear derailleur pulleys, a dry brush or toothpick will clear it. Save degreasing for your major services.

The packaging features clear, easy-to-follow instructions on how to top up one’s tire sealant using the Easyfill Pouch. You can easily slide the pouch nozzle over any standard Presta valve for spill-free top-ups, and its milliliter marking gives one a good indication of how much sealant to add to your tire. Completely filling a 29” MTB tire requires 100-120mls, 26”/27.5” tires take 80-100mls, and road/gravel tires require between 60-90mls. Always ensure the valve stem is clear and unblocked, as this is often the barrier to getting sealant into the tire. With the valve core removed, clear the valve stem using a 2.5mm Allen key. It works well to push out any old sealant or other blockages.

 There are two methods for inserting sealant with the 120ml Pouch:

Method one: Rotate the wheel to locate the valve at 12 o'clock and remove the valve core. Shake the pouch properly to mix the granules evenly with the latex. Secure the pouch nozzle to the valve stem. Ensure the pouch has sufficient air before proceeding, as it supplies the necessary "propellant" to propel the sealant into the tire upon applying pressure. Once secured, rotate the wheel gradually to the 6 o’clock position while squeezing the pouch from the 4 o'clock position until it is empty when reaching the bottom of the rotation.

Method two: Rotate the wheel to locate the valve at 6 o'clock and remove the valve core. Shake the pouch properly to mix the granules evenly with the latex. Keep the pouch in the upright position and fold the spout over, almost as if you are sealing a pack of crisps after opening it. While keeping the pouch upright, secure the nozzle onto the valve. Then, while turning the pouch upside down (for the fluid to flow out), squeeze it gradually to transport the sealant into the tire.

 Important: After reading this, it should be clear that one wants to avoid all the BeadBlock™ granules settling in the bottom of the pouch and then only trying to force it into the valve. The two methods above ensure that the BeadBlock™ granules are transported gradually into the tire, along with a lot of fluid (sealant).

Yes, you can, but there's an optimum level beyond which adding more granules won't enhance the sealing effect and prematurely dry the sealant.

BeadBlock™ comes already added to the 120ml SEAL pouches, but for all other containers (1L and 5L), BeadBlock™ is added per application. We recommend 3 5ml (half a cap) per 100ml-150ml as per the instructions on the label.

No, it does not clog up the valves from the inside and you will be able to top-up at any time and also inflate as you need.

In rare cases the sealant might solidify prematurely to form solid pieces of rubber in the tire.  This is due to two factors; chemical contamination and CO₂ bombing with the valve at 6 o’clock (bottom) position.  Chemical contamination usually occurs from the mold release agent used during the manufacturing of tires.  New tires should be cleaned properly with liquid soap and rinsed with water to remove manufacturing chemical residue. 

The second probable cause for solids formation (bombing at 6 o’clock position) is due to the extreme cold stream of CO₂ jetting into the puddle of sealant at the bottom of the tire. The sealant can handle sub-zero temperatures to -4 ℉ (-20℃) without freezing, but not that which comes from the sudden expansion of the high-pressure gas into the immediate surrounding low-pressure atmosphere into the puddle.  This causes the sealant emulsion to solidify, hence forming lumps.

Yes, it's normal no cause for concern.

The latex part of the sealant was absorbed into the tire to seal rubber porosity, especially in tubeless-ready tires and thin-walled racing tires which are more porous.  This seals the side walls and less frequent air top-ups will be required.  Remove the remainder of the translucent liquid in the tire and top-up with fresh sealant.

CO₂ can be used in emergencies with sealant, baring in mind that the bomb should only be activated with the valve at the top (i.e. 12 o’clock) position. The cold blast of gas directly into the sealant can lead to local solidification of most latex-based sealants with resulting lumps.

Yes, you can. There is an optimum level though where-after more kernels will not seal more effectively.

Barrier Balm is not aqueous cream based. It is a more fatty, high lanolin containing balm which is water repelling. It stays on skin longer and  protects for the duration of an ultra-endurance event in wet or dry conditions.

Lanolin melts at 100℉ to 107℉ (38℃ to 41℃). It can still be applied to skin in liquid form. When it cools down again it will set to the original consistency unchanged. Store at room temperature.

This is a characteristic of pure lanolin. Once it's in contact with skin and warms up it softens making applying easier. It can be difficult to apply in very cold conditions though. Storing at room temperature is recommended.

Warm water and a bar of soap are most effective to remove excess Barrier Balm after application.

As the name suggests, Squirt chamois cream is aimed at cyclists while Barrier Balm works as a long-lasting chamois cream and an anti-chafe balm when chafing could be an issue - feet, armpits (running) and your neck in a wetsuit (triathlon/swimming). Both contain lanolin and tea tree oil, but chamois cream is thinner and not as adhesive.

With this new addition to our product range, we aim to reduce the volume of single-use plastic waste that leaves our factory without compromising on the quality and ease of use of our current biodegradable bike cleaning products.

Our Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate can be used as a bike wash solution by diluting 1 x 30ml sachet with 720ml (24 oz) clean water. The most convenient way to dilute your super concentrate is to pour the contents of a 30ml Super Concentrate Sachet into a 750ml spray bottle and fill it with 720ml water. Shake to ensure the concentrate dissolves completely before using it as a bike cleaner to spray directly onto your bike. For mild degreasing, use 1 x 30ml sachet with 180ml clean water. Always test your solution on a small area of the material before continuing.

Our Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate can be used as a bike wash solution by diluting 1 x 30ml sachet with 720ml (24 oz) clean water. The most convenient way to dilute your super concentrate is to pour the contents of a 30ml Super Concentrate Sachet into a 750ml spray bottle and fill it with 720ml water. Shake to ensure the concentrate dissolves completely before using it as a bike cleaner to spray directly onto your bike. For mild degreasing, use 1 x 30ml sachet with 180ml clean water. Always test your solution on a small area of the material before continuing.

Depending on how stubborn the dirt/grease is that you want to remove, the Super Concentrate can be diluted to a strength of 1 x 30ml sachet +180ml water. Stronger dilutions are not recommended. Standard concentrate can be used to a dilution of 1:5 for stubborn dirt or undiluted for mild degreasing. Always test dilution on a small area of the material to ensure safety of use.

Yes, you can use the 30ml Super Concentrate in dilution of one 30ml Super Concentrate sachet + 180 ml clean water as a mild chain degreaser (1 x 30ml sachet + 180ml water). The normal Concentrate can be used undiluted for this purpose. Soak the chain in the solution for at least 30 minutes, scrub, rinse with clean water and repeat if necessary. Squirt Biodegradable Bike cleaner also works well as a degreaser for a sonic cleaner in the above recommended solutions.

Yes, Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner is safe to use on steel, aluminium, carbon, rubber and most fabric garments. That said, always test on a small sample before using if you are unsure.

Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner is a mild and environmentally safe water-based alkaline degreaser free of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO), nonylphenol (NP) and phosphates. Although phosphates are not harmful to humans, anthropogenic (man-made) inputs of phosphorus are well known to have a significant impact on ecosystems and can damage the health of rivers and lakes (eutrophication). Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner is biodegradable according to EEC Objectives 73/404/EEC (biodegradation of surfactants with a Prim.Degra. of > 90%) and does not contain any paraffin solvents, glycols or any glycol ethers.

The Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate is our Bike Cleaner in most concentrated form (30ml Super Concentrate Sachet). It is also more economically priced for those that prefer to mix their own bike cleaner in the concentration they prefer. The standard Concentrate (5 Litre/ 169 oz Container) is ideal for bike wash bays where mixing of small sachets is too time consuming. It is not as concentrated as the 30ml sachets.

Wait until the chain is completely dry and then apply a layer of lube to the inside of the chain while slowly rotating the cranks backward. After applying a layer of lube, continue spinning the cranks slowly for a few revolutions to ensure the lube penetrates the chain rollers and links. If it is the first-time applying Squirt Chain Lube, you can wait until the lube has dried (it will go from milky white to colorless) and apply a second layer to ensure complete coverage and penetration. After initial application, dry brushing of the chain and derailleur pulley wheels to remove occasional wax buildup is all that is required for cleaning before adding fresh Squirt Chain Lube.

Yes. For best performance, start with a clean, properly degreased, and dry chain. The factory grease on a new chain must be completely removed before your first Hot Wax treatment.

Follow the detailed user instructions here: Squirt Performance Hot Wax User Instructions

It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you begin to hear a dry chain noise, a reapplication is likely due. Like all chain lubricants, Squirt Performance Hot Wax lasts longer in dry, dust-free environments than in wet or muddy conditions,.
As a guideline:

• On tar roads, a single application typically lasts 800–1000 km (500–625 miles).
• For dry gravel and dirt racing, expect around 250–300 km (150–200 miles) per application.

1. Remove the chain from the bike and submerge it in approximately 400-500 ml of boiling water with one 30 ml sachet of Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner Super Concentrate.
2. Agitate the chain for 5–10 minutes while the water is boiling. The boiling water helps melt and remove the bulk of the old wax, while the cleaner lifts and encapsulates the remaining dirt and contamination from the chain. If the water was found to be very dirty, repeat this step.
3. Rinse the chain thoroughly with clean water, then dry it as much as possible using compressed air or a clean microfibre cloth.
4. Follow this with a quick 60-second rinse in isopropyl alcohol (IPA). A simple method is to place the chain in a wide-mouthed drinking bottle or glass jar with a lid, add enough IPA to cover the chain, shake the container vigorously, then remove the chain and allow it to dry.
5. Next, follow standard coating instructions from here: Squirt Performance Hot Wax Application Instructions

The remaining IPA can be retained for future rinses. Any dirt or contamination from the rinse will settle to the bottom of the jar in time, allowing the clearer IPA above it to be decanted into a second container for reuse. When using IPA, work in a well-ventilated area and keep it away from heat, sparks and open flames.

To get the full benefit and maximum service life from Squirt Performance Hot Wax, we recommend deep-cleaning the chain before every full hot-wax application. Deep-cleaning before the chain goes back into the wax pot helps minimise the amount of dirt and contamination carried into the wax. The cleaner the chain is, the cleaner the wax bath remains and the longer it will continue to perform as intended. Contamination can accelerate wax ageing and degradation, so keeping the chain clean before each rewax is an important part of maintaining consistent performance.

Yes. This is how we recommend using the two products together.

Squirt Performance Hot Wax is used as the base treatment, and Squirt drip wax can then be applied as a maintenance top-up when the chain begins to sound dry.

As a general guideline, one normally gets the distances below from a hot wax treatment.  The chain can then be topped-up with drip wax.

• Dry road riding: around 800–1000 km (500–625 miles) or more per hot-wax application.
• Dry gravel and dirt riding: around 250–300 km (150–200 miles) or more per hot-wax application.

From anecdotal testing, we have found that you can typically use around 3–4 drip-wax top-ups before having to do another full hot-wax reset.

Avoid applying drip wax too frequently, as excess product can accumulate on the outside of the chain and derailleur pulleys.

• Ensure the chain is dry.
• Clean the chain while on the bike by running it through a microfibre cloth that had been wetted with some isopropyl alcohol (IPA). This removes the bulk of the dust and dirt from the outside of the chain and prevents it from being transported into the chain by the drip wax.
• Shake bottle and apply to inside of DRY chain while turning the cranks.
• It is not necessary to wipe off the excess lube from the chain. However, if you do find that the dried wax accumulates excessively on the derailleur pulleys and cassette after a couple of rides, a wipe-off after application may help prevent this.
• Allow the chain to dry completely before cycling – especially in wet conditions.

Yes, you can do an on-bike clean after a wet and muddy ride if you do not want to do a complete Hot Wax reset. However, dirt is usually transported deep into the internal parts of a chain after a wet and muddy ride, so it is advised to do a full deep-clean reset.

A clamp-on chain cleaner, such as the Park Tool CG-2.4, with Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner can clear most of the dirt. Two cleaning cycles are usually sufficient to remove surface contaminant from the side plates and any dirt trapped inside the chain that can be removed and encapsulated, will be rinsed out by the Bike Cleaner solution.  Rinse the chain thoroughly with clean water, then make sure it is as dry as possible before applying one of our drip waxes according to the product instructions.

Ho do I dry my chain on the bike?

Leave the bike in the sun for a couple of hours to allow as much as possible of the trapped water to evaporate. Alternatively, use compressed air to remove as much water as possible from the chain. If neither option is available and you are in a hurry, bounce the bike several times to shed as much excess water as possible, then wipe the outside of the chain thoroughly with a clean microfibre cloth. Once the chain is dry to the touch, apply a thin coat of Squirt drip wax as top-up and allow it to dry properly before riding.

No. The important thing is to use enough wax to completely submerge the chain during the Hot Wax treatment. In many cases, using only a portion of the bag, such as one-third to one-half, is good practice. This limits the amount of fresh wax exposed to any contamination that may be introduced into the melting pot during repeated treatments. When the wax in the pot shows clear signs of excessive contamination or performance degradation on the bike is noticeable, discard the old wax and replace it with fresh wax from the remainder in the bag. This approach can help extend the useful life of the full 500-gram pack.

As a general guideline, around 25–30 reheating cycles is reasonable.

The wax does not suddenly stop working after a specific number of cycles, but repeated heating, oxidation and contamination will gradually affect its condition and performance. Ensure the chain is cleaned as per these FAQ guidelines before every rewax and avoiding temperatures above 100 °C will help maximise the useful life of the wax.

Heat Squirt Performance Hot Wax to 85–95 °C, with 93–95 °C being the preferred operating range. Do not allow the wax to exceed 100 °C. It is important that the chain itself also reaches the target temperature. If a cold chain is added to already-hot wax, leave it submerged for around 3–5 minutes while gently swishing it. This allows the chain and wax to equalise in temperature and ensures proper penetration. This is especially important if only a small amount of wax is used as the wax cools down quickly, often by as much as 10 °C, when a cold chain is submerged.  If a clean chain is placed in the pot from the start and heats together with the wax, around 30-60 seconds of swishing is generally sufficient once the target temperature is reached.

A brief accidental temperature overshoot does not necessarily mean the wax is ruined. The 100 °C limit is there to minimise accelerated oxidation and degradation of the wax and its additives. Prolonged or repeated overheating is more of a concern than a brief accidental spike.  If the wax has briefly exceeded 100 °C, it can generally still be used. Avoid repeated overheating and use a digital thermometer to monitor the actual wax temperature.

A temperature-controlled multi-cooker or cooker with a sous-vide function is the easiest option because it provides good temperature control.  Dedicated small wax melting pots can also be used, but it was found that some cases, these pots do not have adequate heating capacity or accurate temperature control, and we recommend using a separate digital kitchen thermometer.

A basic slow cooker can also work well, but we recommend using a digital kitchen thermometer to check the actual wax temperature and determine which setting keeps it within the 85–95 °C range.

An old pot on an electric stove can also be used if the wax is heated slowly and monitored carefully. Avoid high heat, which can create local hot spots, and avoid using an open flame.

Rice cookers are generally not recommended because they can heat aggressively and overshoot the required temperature.

Yes. Some discoloration of the wax over time is normal. The color can change because of dirt and wear particles carried back into the wax by the chain, as well as oxidation and general ageing caused by repeated heating cycles.

A darker wax bath does not automatically mean the wax is unusable. Good chain-cleaning practices before every rewax, such as the Deep-clean explained elsewhere in these FAQ’s, will help keep contamination to a minimum and extend the useful life of the wax.

Yes. Some colour variation between batches is normal and is no cause for concern. The wax may range in appearance from pale yellow to light green.  This variation can occur because the natural colour of the raw waxes may differ slightly from batch to batch, as can the colour of some of the additives used in the formulation.  The variation is more noticeable with Squirt Performance Hot Wax because our additives and friction modifiers do not turn the wax dark grey or black, as is the case with some other hot-wax products.

This is normal — you’re just seeing what also happens on the road or trail (but goes unnoticed). Due to the softer wax composition of the Hot Wax, much less shedding occurs when compared to some other immersive waxes.  The black pieces are shed wax being released as the wax is pushed out of the chain internals and breaks down. On trainers, more wax may accumulate on the chain because there’s less vibration to help it shed.

We have not formally tested compatibility with other brands’ drip waxes, as our recommendation is to use Squirt Performance Hot Wax together with the Squirt drip-wax range.

It is recommended to dry the chain as soon as possible after washing.

If available, use compressed air to remove trapped water from between the rollers and side plates. Alternatively, wipe the chain thoroughly with a clean microfibre cloth and allow it to dry.

Generally, leaving a wet waxed chain standing for extended periods can result in light surface rust, particularly on exposed chain surfaces.

A typical hot-wax treatment removes approximately 3–4 grams of wax from the pot.

This means a 500-gram bag can coat many chains when done simultaneously, especially if the wax is kept clean and is not overheated.

For a road bike in dry conditions, the initial hot wax application will typically last around 800–1000 km, although this can vary depending on rider power, road dust, and overall drivetrain cleanliness. For off-road riding, this may be closer to 250–350 km.

After the initial application, you can either reapply Hot Wax or use Squirt Chain Lube as a top-up. As a general guide, you can top up with drip wax about 3–4 times between full hot wax applications, after which we recommend a full hot-wax reset for best performance. If the chain starts sounding dry before these distances, that is the best indicator that it is time to reapply.

Yes, a dedicated chain stripper or degreaser is suitable for prepping a new chain for hot wax, provided it removes the factory grease completely. As a precaution, we recommend doing a final isopropyl alcohol flush in a glass jar after using the stripper.

Give the jar a couple of shakes and check the alcohol. If it stays clear, the chain is properly degreased. If not, repeat the alcohol flush until it does. Once that is done, allow the chain to dry fully before waxing.

Any quality drivetrain degreaser should work well — just always perform the final alcohol flush step to ensure no grease or residue remains before waxing.

Any quality drivetrain degreaser should work well for first-time chain preparation in an ultrasonic cleaner. After any degreasing step, we always recommend a quick isopropyl alcohol flush in a glass jar to remove any remaining residue. If the isopropyl runs out clear, that is a good indication that the chain is down to bare metal and ready for hot wax.

The Squirt biodegradable cleaner sachet mixed with boiling water is the method we recommend mainly for cleaning a previously waxed chain before rewaxing, especially after wet or muddy rides. The Squirt Biodegradable
Bike Cleaner 30ml Super Concentrate sachets can also be used in an ultrasonic
cleaner (300–500 ml water in a suspended glass jar is what we use). 

In summary: for full initial degreasing, any good drivetrain degreaser is suitable; for ongoing maintenance before rewaxing, the Squirt Biodegradable Bike Cleaner 30ml Super Concentrate sachets plus hot water method remains our recommended approach, whether done with boiling water or in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Yes, our Hot Wax works perfectly well on E-Bikes especially with the higher motor torque. The formulation includes anti-wear and high-pressure additives that prevent metal-to-metal contact and help protect the chain under higher pressures, so it performs reliably even with the increased power from an E-Bike motor. 

You can use our drip version E-Bike Chain Wax as a convenient top-up between hot wax applications. Usually you can do about 3–4 top-up applications and then only do a complete hot-wax reset.

The recommended working temperature range is 85–95°C, with 95°C being the upper target for consistent processing. This range ensures the complete blend is properly molten, flow and penetration into the chain are optimal, and the process stays controlled over repeated use cycles.

A brief rise to 100°C in a double boiler is not generally a problem, but we do not recommend using that as the operating target. If a double boiler brings the wax close to 100°C, simply let it cool back slightly into the recommended range before processing the chain.

We have carried out extended high-temperature testing at 100°C for 72 hours under clean laboratory conditions and observed only a minor pH drift, indicating some oxidation, but nothing dramatic. The broader concern with temperature is not a dramatic effect over a few degrees, but that unnecessary thermal exposure over many cycles is not good process discipline for any wax system.

The recommended working temperature range is 85–95°C, with 95°C being the upper target for consistent processing. This range ensures the complete blend is properly molten, flow and penetration into the chain are optimal, and the process stays controlled over repeated use cycles.

A brief rise to 100°C in a double boiler is not generally a problem, but we do not recommend using that as the operating target. If a double boiler brings the wax close to 100°C, simply let it cool back slightly into the recommended range before processing the chain.

We have carried out extended high-temperature testing at 100°C for 72 hours under clean laboratory conditions and observed only a minor pH drift, indicating some oxidation, but nothing dramatic. The broader concern with temperature is not a dramatic effect over a few degrees, but that unnecessary thermal exposure over many cycles is not good process discipline for any wax system.

The Performance Hot Wax is used as the base treatment on a properly cleaned chain. Thereafter, Squirt Long Lasting Chain Lube can be used as a top-up between hot-wax applications when the chain starts sounding dry. As a general guideline, you can usually do around 3–4 drip-wax top-ups before it is best to reset the chain with a full hot-wax treatment again. In terms of durability, the initial hot-wax application on a road bike in dry conditions will typically last around 800–1000 km (some, like Adam Kerin from Zero Friction Cycling, claim much more). In off-road conditions, the duration is usually more in the region of 250–350 km, depending on dust, mud, rider power, and overall drivetrain cleanliness.

So, it is not really a case of choosing one or the other only. The ideal use is hot wax as the main treatment, with the drip wax used in conjunction with it as a convenient maintenance top-up between full hot-wax applications.

The KMC pre-waxed chain is compatible with the Squirt hot wax. It is not the same exact blend of waxes and therefore customers must not expect to get the same longevity from the wax on the KMC pre-waxed chain as from the Squirt Hot Wax. We developed the KMC coating wax alongside them primarily as a corrosion inhibitor to protect the chain after manufacturing, but also to eliminate the need for degreasing when using a drip wax such as Squirt or KMC Go. Thus, you can ride the KMC chain for 2–3 hours, then do your Squirt hot-wax treatment as you normally would.

Discoloration of the wax after a few uses is perfectly normal. It usually happens because small amounts of dirt and wear particles are carried back into the wax by the chain, and because the wax gradually oxidizes and ages with repeated heating cycles. A change in color does not necessarily mean the wax has gone bad — it's simply a sign that cleanliness and temperature control remain important for best performance.

A good cleaning routine helps a lot here. Before rewaxing — especially after wet, muddy, or dusty rides — we recommend cleaning the chain in boiling water with one of our 30 ml Super Concentrate cleaner sachets. The boiling water helps melt and remove the old wax, while the cleaner lifts dirt and contamination from the chain and helps prevent it from redepositing. Returning a clean chain to the wax keeps the wax cleaner for longer and helps it perform better over more cycles.

We don't recommend skimming darker wax off the top as it reheats — this isn't necessary and won't improve performance.

Washing your bike after a ride will not strip all the wax from the chain. However, you may occasionally notice light surface rust if the chain is left to air-dry after a wash. This happens because wax is excellent for cleanliness and low friction, but unlike oily lubes, it doesn't coat exposed outer surfaces in the same way.

If light surface rust does appear, the best way to minimize it is to dry the chain as soon as possible after washing. Wipe it thoroughly with a clean, dry cloth, and if the chain got properly wet, it's best to apply a thin coat of Squirt Drip Wax and let it dry.

You don't need to use the whole bag at once. If using a partial amount works well for you and you're not experiencing any issues, it's perfectly fine to continue that way.

This is almost always caused by over-application — either using too much wax at once or topping up too frequently. When that happens, excess wax builds up on the outside of the chain and around the drivetrain, where it mixes with dirt and wear particles to form the black residue some riders notice.

It can also happen if the chain wasn't properly cleaned and degreased before the first application — particularly if residue from a previous oil-based lube is still present. Wax doesn't bond well to a contaminated surface, so buildup happens much faster in that case.

How to minimise or avoid it:

• Thoroughly degrease the chain before the first wax application
• Apply the drip wax sparingly
• Let it dry fully before riding
• Reapply only when the chain starts sounding dry — not on a fixed schedule

Wipe off any visible excess from the outside of the chain if needed

A very practical tip is to
use a hard-bristled brush on the cassette and derailleur pulleys after the
first ride or two. That helps remove excess wax that has been squeezed out of
the chain and collected on the outside surfaces, where it no longer contributes
much to lubrication.  When applied correctly to a properly prepared chain,
the system should run very cleanly.

The chain hanger was included as part of a limited launch special, indicated by an additional sticker on the packaging at the time. It is not included with current production runs. However, you don't need the official hanger to use the wax — a simple DIY alternative, such as an old coat hanger or a piece of wire, works just as well for hanging your chain.